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DM Guide by _NiNja_WiSeMaN1

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DM Guide by _NiNja_WiSeMaN1

Post by rated_R_ on Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:30 pm

ECONOMY


In DM, the most important thing in the game after a basic understanding on how to build buildings and make units is how to make an economy. Most players out there will spend countless hours playing AoC online yet never understand what truly separates them from the “experts”. The answer is of course their economy.

Most games, unless one player is severely outmatched, are not over in less then 14 minutes. And in the vast majority of those games that last more then 14 minutes, the player with the best economy will win. True, there are other factors such at strategy, aggression, speed, raiding, and civ match-up, but against those players who you can easily outeco, the rest of the factors are mute. It is sick the number of people I have beaten 1v1 when I get Aztecs vs. Persians or Turks vs. Celts or even Vikings vs. Spanish. This is because after the first 14 minutes or so, my enemy is out of gold and possibly food, while (thanks to my economy) I never go broke. And while I am not the best player you will ever play, my economy far surpasses my skill in other areas of AoC. When I am not running cold, I can keep pace with the economies of most 2k players with fairly good effectiveness. Keep in mind that this article is not meant to teach you how to make a Hun-war (or other civwar) Economy. It is meant to teach you a very good overall economy, most prevalent in team games



In the next few paragraphs, you will learn the most important, and in time, the easiest skill in AoC. A skill that will win you more games then the fastest rush or the best attacking style. How to make a great economy.



Basic Expert Economy



With most civ’s in team games you are at your maximum economy at about 145 villager/trade carts. In most 1v1 games 120-130 should do fine. To gauge this, remember to check your villager high after each game (located in post-game stats).



This is by no means the be-all-end-all on AoC Economics, by chances are this simple, yet very productive strategy will work much better then that which you currently use on your economy. Make sure to have your scores on in bottom right corner (f4) and your GAME TIMER on in the top left corner (F11, Very Important). All given times are based on your game timer NOT REAL TIME!



1. At 3:30 to 4:00 minute mark take 2 villagers off of your military buildings and have them build 2 TCs (Town Centers), one a piece, next to your big gold pile. It is preferred if the one of the bottom two sides touch the gold pile, but if the top quarter must touch it, it is better to leave 1 space between the TC and the gold pile to allow easier villager movement.

2. Between the 5:00 and 6:00 minute mark set up 3 wood TCs (one villager a piece, up to 2 TCs on 1 large group of trees). Make sure to set these up so the TC is touching the trees whenever possible. Also take set up 1 TC on each of the 2 small gold piles located near your base. And finally, off to the side of one of your TCs set up about 15 farms with a Mill in the middle. Set the Mill in the middle of the farms and make sure that you set it down last so the villager will build it (it does not matter if it is gold or wood TC, but it is preferred that the where u set down the farms is located somewhere where they can be easily protected in your base). Then take your starting TC and queue 15 villagers (shift + villager hokey 3 times) and set the gather point on one of the middle farms in your 15-farm group. You will also likely have 5 villagers or so standing around in your base doing nothing. Take these and put them on a stone pile (make a mine camp next to it). These are all the stone miners that you need.

3. At between 6:00 to 7:00 minute mark Q up your 2 big gold pile TCs with 15 villagers each and set the gather points on a piece of gold(it takes 2:10 for 1 villager to make a TC if you were wondering).

4. At between the 7:30 to 8:30 minute mark Q up each of your 3 wood TCs with 15 villagers each and the gather set to the trees next to your TC, one or two trees into the forest. Also make 10 (yes I said 10) villagers at each of your two small gold piles, gathering on the gold of course.

5. (IF IN TEAMS) at about the 8-10 minute mark make 3 markets at one corner of the map. About 2 minutes later Q each market with 10-15 carts and gather them on your allies market.

6. If desired at around the 11-12 minute make take 5-7 farmers off of the trees near each wood TC and have them make farms around that TC. The number you pull off (if any) depends on how much you need food as opposed to wood. With Koreans you will likely pull none off, while with Persians it would be a good idea to pull 10 off of each TC. The rest of the civs fall somewhere in between.



If you have done this correctly, by about the 15-minute mark you should have about 120 workers (50 gold+45 wood+ 15 food+ 5 builders+ 5 villager on stone) and if in a team games you will be approaching about 150 thanks to your trade carts. You now have an expert 0 to 22 minute economy and a great leg up on your opponent who will hit a gold wall at about 15 minutes.



7. At about the 22-minute mark (sooner if you are Turks) your gold piles will likely become exhausted. Since in 1v1’s you still need all those villagers, you want to pull them off of gold and set them up mostly farming, and take maybe 10 villagers and put them on each of any small gold piles around the map that you currently control. Those who you do not put on gold will mostly go to food since you likely need that resource more then wood, but put some on wood if desired. DO NOT delete or kill off any villagers 1v1.



(IF IN TEAMS) You will need to undertake the process of transplanting gold miners with trade carts to keep your economy pumping out gold for your army. So lets say you have 30 carts made, and now 50 freshly idled gold miners. At maximum late team Eco, you need 50-60 trade carts. So around 25-30 of your gold miners (about half) you want to send into your enemies castles and/or army to kill them off and recover pop. If desired and you think you can, try to have the make a castle or tower in the enemy eco. If not just having them go kamikaze will work just fine. The other 20-25 miners you want to put on food and/or wood, mostly food since you will likely need more unless u pulled a lot of people off of trees earlier in the game.



You now, believe it or not, know how to manufacture an expert economy. While this is not the complete guide for all situations, in the vast majority of games, this strategy will make you easily Out-Eco all Rooks + Inters as well as many Experts, which will mean you have more resources, and can make more stronger units to destroy the opposition. The true expert ability as far as economy goes, is to make sure he is getting the most out of the villagers he has. One must be able to adjust, so if for instance he has 200 food and 7k wood, he needs to take quite a few choppers and make them into farmers. Also to be able to find idle villagers and put them to work is an acquired skill.



Basic question to ask yourself to see if you have a productive full eco:



After the 20 minute mark, are you at, or very close to the population limit?



A good economy should constantly have military units Que’d up and villagers all at work so that as units die, others are made with the resources you have available. If you are not at or near pop, you either need more villagers and/or carts or you need to redistribute the villagers you have (it is very hard to have an army to stay at pop if you have 10k wood and 500 food).



You now have the economy to become an expert. Reread and practice these tips until you have perfected them. Once mastered and combined with the other aspects of game play you will be vastly improved. Good luck.



MAP CONTROL



If you are going to learn (or at least pretend to learn) one thing from these articles besides how to make a good economy, please learn some map control. Like an eco, this is a very important part of the game, though map control is much more important 1v1 then in teams. And while proper map control is very hard to come by, it is much easier to pick up then a proper economy or military strategy.



The problem with most people, is when they 1v1, they see their base, and their opponents base and basically divide the map in half, giving your opponent a basic claim to half of it. To think of the map this way is WRONGE. A good player will know that the map is theirs, not their opponents. Because you see, if you have the sides of the map, you have several advantages over your opponent.



THE ADVANTAGES:

1. Your opponent will not have room the make a proper economy.

2. Your opponent will feel trapped and therefore go on the defensive, making your economy completely safe from raids.

3. Easy raiding access to what economy your opponent has.

4. You can keep your opponent guessing while you attack from multiple sides.

5. To keep the game in your control at all times.

6. If things happen to go bad, your opponent has more land to go through to take you down, which means you’ll have ample time to recover.

7. To crush your opponents moral. When surrounded players tend to play as though the loss is imminent (though it often is not) and even just give up.



These seven advantages due to map control are very important and helpful during a game. If you have been playing without good map control, using some will drastically increase your overall play and help you win many more games.



HOW TO HAVE GOOD MAP CONTROL 1V1

To have good map control you must first change the way you see the map. You should look at the map as though you have 3 battlefronts. The one in the middle is the main front. This is the only one most people use. There are also two side fronts. On a neutral map, they are to each side of the main front at half-map. Together these 3 fronts (on a neutral map) would make up a straight line separating you and your opponents bases. The key to good map control though, is to have your side fronts not be parallel to your main front, but rather to be on the sides of your enemies base, to enclose him and box him in. If you manage to do this, you will be able use all the advantages of owning the map. This is how you do it:



Your main front is the same as it has always been; it is basically you and your opponent fighting in the middle of the map with those big armies of yours. If you are a good player you probably win most games on the main front alone, if not you may need help in the speed, strategy, or economy areas. There should be articles on each of these on this site to help you with that. But anyhow, fight you main front as you normally would. The difference however is at the 2-3 minute mark you are going to take some of your preferably hand-to-hand units (paladins, halbs, champs, eagles, w/e) and put them at spots on the map where you think your opponent may try to send villagers in an effort to gain map control on you. Most opponents do not guard their villagers, so they are easy prey. For this reason, you only need 1 unit at each spot. I would suggest maybe 4-6 units (2-3 on each side front, one of which should be somewhere near the castle you will be making in a minute). The loss of 6 military units should not weaken your army any notable amount, and it greatly helps to establish map control. At around the 3.5 to 4 minute mark u should take 2 villagers, and make a castle on each side of your opponent’s base (1 castle each). They should not be so close to his base as to be easily seen or discovered, but they should be deep enough in what your enemy thinks is his territory, so that once they are up and defended, you can surround your opponent, leaving him no room to eco. Once the castles are up, if you have a ranged unique unit, make 2-3 barracks or stables so you can protect your side bases from ram raids. Also once those are up, make 1-2 siege workshops in ur side base so you can perform devastating attacks to the sides of his base with rams + units. If your opponent isn’t expecting it (which he probably wont be), u can do some major damage before stopped. In order for this to work, you can not merely let ur side bases sit there and make nothing, you made them for several reasons, and in order to take advantage of all of them you must be aggressive with your sides.



If your opponent was winning on the main front, you merely need to hold your ground until he goes into disarray trying to stop your side fronts. If u have enough force and aggression on the side, he will eventually weaken his main front to help save his base from destruction. This is where you attack on his lightly manned main front. Then if he strengthens his main front, you once again can attack from the sides. The fact that the battles are taking place on his turf, hopefully at his base, will weaken the economy that he has, which could not match yours at any rate due to limited space. In a short matter of time (which likely will not exceed 30 minutes) the combined factors of confusion, damage to his base, his lack of economy, and his diminished will should grant you victory. Also during the game send some fast units, preferably scouts, into his eco for raiding any economy that he does have. If you stay aggressive, you need not worry about protecting your own economy, except vs. a very select number of players. To use resources on units to raid your enemies base while you are boxed in and on the defensive is a very hard thing to do though. People will naturally not want to do such things, though some very good players will still force themselves to raid you, which is not necessarily a bad move on their part. Also if your enemy happens to use their main force to attack one of your side bases, It is your choice whether to take over and push hard on the main front or send troops to counter his attack on your side. A basic rule of thumb though is if your army is fairly fast, you should counter his attack on your side to maintain map control, but if your army is slow but powerful (probably siege based) then you should let that forward side front go and make some defenses on that side in what would be more neutral territory.



TEAM GAME MAP CONTROL

Stay aggressive. Protect your economy. Raid your enemy’s economy. Also trade is your most valuable asset, as it is for your opponent, so keep that in mind.



There is your Expert map control. Follow this basic structure and you will win many games that you otherwise would not be able to, and also much more easily handle those who you can defeat anyhow. Good Day.



UNIT COUNTERS



First, I know that there are many people that don’t look at unit statistics so here’s a basic how to for unit statistics before I type out all the counters:

When you click on the unit, in the bottom left corner there will be a picture of that unit with some statistics by it.

At the top is the health bar which below it says how many hit points your units has.

Below that is a picture of what looks like a sword, next to the picture will give the given units attack, for example the paladin’s attack is 14+4 which = 18 attack

Below the attack is a picture of armor that is where, you guessed it, the unit’s armor is displayed. For every unit there is regular armor/pierce armor. For instance the paladin’s armor will say 2+3/3+4(regular armor/pierce armor),which means when a melee unit such as a champion attacks it since the champion has 13+4(=17) attack you minus 2+3 regular armor (=5), so each hit of the champion does 12 damage to the paladin. All units that fire projectiles (including towers, but not including orangers, bombard cannons, Mamelukes, or throwing axemen) cause pierce damage. All others (such as the champion as represented before) cause regular damage. If for example an arbalest who has 6+4(=10) attacked a paladin which will have 3+4 (=7) pierce armor, the arbalest will do 3 damage pet hit (10 minus 7). Below armor is range, which is displayed next to an archery target symbol, which is pretty self-explanatory. The attack minus armor tells u the damage for most attacks, but some units such as halberds or camels have hidden attack bonuses vs some other units. After you subtract the armor from the attack, then just add on the attack bonus that a unit may have. Keep in mind that Attack-Armor, if 0 or negative, still does 1 damage.



Barrack Units



Champion:

Good vs: Halberdiers, skirmishers, rams, camels, hussars

Bad vs: Arbalests, cavalry archers, hand cannoneers, paladins, scorpions

Attack Bonus: None



Halberdiers:

Good vs: Paladins, camels, hussars, all non-ranged mounted unique units

Bad vs: Arbalests, cavalry archers, hand cannoneers, champions, scorpions

Attack Bonus:

Halberdiers: +32 vs all mounted units (exceptions: +60-Elephants,

+18-Cataphracts, +16-Camels

Pikemen: +20 vs all mounted units (exceptions: +48-Elephants, +6-Cataphracts, +11-Camels



Eagle Warrior:

Good vs: Arbalests, skirmishers, cavalry archers, halberdiers, rams, onagers

Bad vs: Paladins, hand cannoneers, champions

Attack Bonus: +8-Paladins, +10-Monks, +5-Siege, +8-Rams



Archery Range Units



Arbalest:

Good vs: Champions, halberdiers, unique infantry units with low pierce armor, hussars, hand cannoneers

Bad vs: Paladins, scorpions, onagers, rams(meant to draw fire so other units don’t get damaged), skirmishers

Attack Bonus: None



Skirmisher:

Good vs: Arbalests, cavalry archers, hand cannoneers, and all unique archer units

Bad vs: Champions, halberdiers, hussars, paladins, camels, rams(meant to draw fire), onagers, scorpions

Attack Bonus: +4-Archers (all)

Minimum Range: 1



Cavalry Archer:

Good vs: Champions, halberdiers(when massed), cannoneers

Bad vs: Paladins, camels, skirmishers, halberdiers(when not massed=less then 30 cavalry archers), rams(meant to draw fire), onagers

Attack Bonus: None



Hand Cannoneer:

Good vs: Champions, halberdiers, all unique infantry units

Bad vs: Paladins, arbalests, skirmishers, cavalry archers, rams(used to draw fire), onagers, all unique archer units

Attack Bonus: +10-All infantry

Stable Units



Hussar:

Good vs: Skirmishers, Onagers, Rams

Bad vs: Everything else

Attack Bonus:

Hussar: +12-Monks

Light Cavalry: +10-Monks



Paladin:

Good vs: Champions, Arbalests, Hand Cannoneers, Skirmishers, Cavalry Archers, Orangers, Rams, Scorpions, All infantry and archer unique units (except Teutonic Knight)

Bad vs: Halberdiers, Camels

Attack Bonus: None



Camel:

Good vs: Hussars, Paladins, All unique mounted units (except War Elephants, Cataphract, and Mameluke), cavalry archers

Bad vs: Champions, Halberdiers, All unique infantry units

Attack Bonus: +16-Malmalukes, +18-All other mounted units (except Cataphracts)



Siege Workshop Units



Ram:

Good vs: Archer units (to draw fire), Scorpions (to draw fire), Scorpions (to kill), Onagers (to kill), Trebuchets (to kill), All buildings

Bad vs: All hand-to-hand units. Champions and Eagle warriors have attack bonus’s vs Rams

Attack Bonus:

Siege Ram: +40-Siege, +200-Buildings(with siege engineers tech), +240-Buildings(w/o siege engineers tech)

Capped Ram: +40-Siege, +150-Buildings(with siege engineers tech), +180-Buildings(without siege engineers tech)



Onager:

Good vs: All ranged units

Bad vs: All fast hand-to-hand units, All medium speed hand-to-hand units (low-lag game)

Attack Bonus:

Siege Onager: +65-Buildings, +18-Siege

Onager: +45-Buildings, +18-Siege

Minimum Range: 4



Scorpions:

Good vs: All hand-to-hand units with low pierce armor, when massed(40 or more) can kill units with high pierce armor as well

Bad vs: Onagers, Enemy army with rams followed by other units, Rams themselves

Attack Bonus: +8-Elephants, +2 rams, +4 buildings

Minimum Range: 4

Special: Darts damage everything in their path



Bombard Cannon:

Good vs: Onagers, Buildings, Trebuchets, Scorpions, Rams(when shooting and rams are not moving)

Bad vs: All hand-to-hand units, Rams(when being hit)

Attack Bonus: +120-Buildings, +160-towers, +20 Siege, +40 Ships

Minimum Range: 5



Castle Units



Trebuchet:

Good vs: Buildings, can work well against Onagers and Scorpions if u manually control it:

Bad vs: Any non-archer unit that attacks it

Attack Bonus: +250-Buildings

Minimum Range: 4



Petard:

Good vs: NEVER MAKE A PETARD IN DM

Bad vs: NEVER MAKE A PETARD IN DM

Attack Bonus: Not enough to excuse you ever making one. Technically three petards can make a hole in a wall but 240 food + 60 gold to take down some wall pieces is hardly worth it, so again NEVER MAKE A PETARD IN DM



Berserk:

Civ: Vikings

Good vs: Halberdiers, skirmishers, rams, camels, hussars

Bad vs: Arbalests, cavalry archers, hand cannoneers, paladins, scorpions

Attack Bonus: None

Special: Recovers 20hp/min, a sooped up Champion





Cataphract:

Civ: Byzantines

Good vs: Champions, Eagle Warriors, unique infantry units, Archers

Bad vs: Paladins, Halberdiers (pikemen are fairly ineffective though), massed scorpions

Attack Bonus: +12-All Infantry

Special: +6 attack to units on adjacent tiles, An Anti-Infantry Cavalry unit



Cho Ko Nu:

Civ: Chinese

Good vs: Champions, Halberdiers, Hand Cannoneers, all unique infantry(except Huskarls), Camels, Rams

Bad vs: Paladins, Skirmishers, Onagers, Huskarls, unique units with high pierce armor

Attack Bonus: None

Special: Fires 4 extra arrow that do 3 damage each (each will do 1 damage if other unit has any pierce armor), an arbalest that has more attack and can kill rams



Conquistador:

Civ: Spanish

Good vs: All Infantry units

Bad vs: Skirmishers, Onagers, Rams(to draw fire), Halberdiers (if they get close enough to attack), Camels, Paladins

Attack Bonus: None

Special: A Faster, stronger hand cannoneer



Huskarl:

Civ: Goths

Good vs: All archer units, Halberdiers

Bad vs: Hand cannon units, Paladins, Champions

Attack Bonus: +10-All Archers

Special: Can be built at barracks, Anti-Archer infantry



Jaguar Warrior:

Civ: Aztecs

Good vs: All Infantry units, Rams, Camels, skirmishers, hussars

Bad vs: Archers, Scorpions, Paladins, Hand cannoneers

Attack Bonus: +10-All Infantry, Anti-Infantry Champion, with more attack/hp/armor



Janissary:

Civ: Turks

Good vs: All Infantry units, Camels

Bad vs: Skirmishers, Onagers, Rams (to draw fire), Paladins

Attack Bonus: +3-Siege

Special: Is a more powerful Hand Cannoneer



Longbowman:

Civ: British

Good vs: All Infantry (except Eagle Warriors + Huscarls), All Archers (except Plumed Archers and War Wagons), Camels, Scorpions

Bad vs: Skirmishers, Onagers, Rams (to draw fire), Paladins, Unique units with high pierce armor, Eagle Warriors

Attack Bonus: None

Special: Have more range then any other archer in the game (12 total), A super-ranged arbalest



Mameluke:

Civ: Saracens

Good vs: All mounted units, Most unique infantry units, Champions, Rams

Bad vs: Archers, Hand Cannoneers, Skirmishers, Scorpions, Onagers, Teutonic Knights, Halberdiers

Attack Bonus: +12-All mounted units(except camels)

Special: Is a camel with 3 range instead of 0 range



Mangundia:

Civ: Mongols

Good vs: Champions, Halberdiers, Camels(when massed), all unique infantry units (except Huskarls), Onagers, Scorpions

Bad vs: Skirmishers, Huscarls, Mass Onagers, Paladins

Attack Bonus: +5 attack vs siege

Special: Is a faster-firing cavalry archer with 1 more attack and a bonus vs siege units



Plumed Archer:

Civ: Mayans

Good vs: Champions, Halberdiers, Camels, all unique infantry units (except Huskarls), All archer units (except War Wagons), Hand Cannoneers

Bad vs: Skirmishers, Paladins, Huskarls, Onagers, Rams(to draw fire), Eagle Warriors, Other units with high pierce armor

Attack Bonus: None

Special: Is a arbalist with 1 less attack, but fires faster, is cheaper, moves faster, has more hp, and has more pierce armor



Samurai:

Civ: Japanese

Good vs: Champions, Halberdiers, Unique infantry units (except Teutonics, Jaguar Warriors) Good vs archer unique units if they can get close enough to attack, Camels, Skirmishers, Rams

Bad vs: Hand cannoneers, archers, Cataphracts, things that are good against infantry, Paladins, Scorpions

Attack Bonus: +12-All Unique Units

Special: Is a champion with 1 less attack, but faster attack rate, more hp, and an attack bonus vs unique units.



Teutonic Knight:

Civ: Teutons

Good vs: All hand-to-hand units that do not have an attack bonus vs infantry (includes throwing axemen and mamelukes), Skirmishers

Bad vs: Archers, Hand cannoneers, Scorpions, Units with an attack bonus vs infantry units, Monks

Attack Bonus: None

Special: Is a champion with MUCH more attack, melee armor, and hp (can take down a paladin 1v1)



Throw Axemen:

Civ: Franks

Good vs: Champions, Halberdiers, Camels, Unique infantry units that don’t have high melee armor, Rams

Bad vs: Scorpions, Orangers, Skirmishers, All archer units, Hand Cannoneers, Teutonic Knights, Paladins

Attack Bonus: None

Special: A weak Champion which has 5 range instead of 0, which makes them very deadly when massed



War Elephant:

Civ: Persians

Good vs: Every unit in the game that is not listed under “bad vs”

Bad vs: Halberdiers, Mamelukes, Scorpions, Monks

Attack Bonus: None

Special: The strongest unit in the game, can take any other unit 1 on 1. Is also very expensive.



War Wagon:

Civ: Koreans

Good vs: Archers, Champions, Unique infantry with low pierce armor, Scorpions

Bad vs: Paladins, Camels, Halberdiers, Skirmishers, Orangers, Rams(to draw fire)

Attack Bonus: +5-Siege

Special: Is a cavalry archer with a slow fire rate, but high attack and insanely hit points. Also has very high pierce armor. Is quite expensive.



Woad Raider:

Civ: Celts

Good vs: Halberdiers, skirmishers, rams, camels, hussars, Onagers

Bad vs: Archers, Hand Cannoneers, Paladins, Scorpions, Units with attack bonus’s vs infantry

Attack Bonus: None

Special: Is a very fast champion with a little more hp



VILLAGER BUILDING PRODUCTIVITY



I always knew that you lose productivity the more villagers you put on the same building, so I decided to find out how much and decided to share it with you all since I am so nice . I had villagers start building 2 separate building at the same exact instance and stopped once the first building was built. My results were as follows:



(x) number of villagers on building 1 / 1 villager on building 2

1-100% built / 1-100% built

2-100% built / 1-75% built

3-100% built / 1-60% built

4-100% built / 1-50% built

5-100% built / 1-43% built

6-100% built / 1-37% built

7-100% built / 1-33% built

8-100% built / 1-30% built

9-100% built / 1-27% built

10-100% built / 1-25% built



Now what does this truly mean? Well it means a whole bunch of things, including (but not limited to):



- If you put 2 villagers on two separate buildings they will get done just as fast as 4 villagers building two buildings while working together on each (assuming walking time = 0 of course)



- If you put 10 villagers on the same building, they would make 4 buildings in the same amount of time as 10 separate villagers could make 10 buildings (again assuming walking time = 0)



- Assuming that the first villager does not lose productivity and it is only the subsequent villagers on the same building that loose productivity, the productivity of each villager you have also help on the same building compared to your first villager (100%) are as follows:



2nd villager-25%

3rd villager-20%

4th villager-17%

5th villager-14%

6th villager-14%

7th villager-11%

8th villager-9%

9th villager-10%

10th villager-8%



LESSON FROM THIS: When at all possible and reasonable, you will make multiple buildings faster if the villagers are spread out as much as possible, seeing as how every extra villager you have make a building, the crappier that villagers contribution is. Also NEVER HAVE MORE THEN 3 VILLAGERS making a building, especially at start, as it will cripple your overall speed.



AGGRESSION



Aggression is another very important aspect of AoC. When one is aggressive it means that rather then being attacked, you are instead attacking your opponent. This is very important, mainly because you win games by attacking and not by defending. Also though because when you are aggressive it forces your opponent to react to your attacks, rather then you reacting to his attacks. This, in a way, lets you control your opponent. Not to mention the fact that someone with good aggression will defeat his opponent much faster. If every time you kill your opponents army u take out say 2 buildings, you will obviously kill him much more slowly then if you took out 5 every attack. It also stops your opponent from doubling your partner in 2v2 games.



At the start of each game, for the first few minutes, you will have a fairly small army that you will be building. Most people, during this time, figure that their army is too small to effectively attack their opponent. What they fail to realize however is that their opponents army is just as small. And if you have better start speed and unit strategy then your opponent (both of which there are pages elsewhere on this site btw) then you should not only have a larger army, but a more effective army early on. This is a great advantage. If you attack early in the game by attacking once you get 40 or so units and just patrolling them at your enemy, you set the mood for the game. And if your 40-unit army was build fairly quickly and with good units that protect each others weaknesses (cavalry archers and paladins for instance) then your early army should tear his up. This will set the mood for an aggressive approach for the rest of the game. The key is to keep attacking with your 40 unit armies as long as it is effective. If for instance he manages to start to siege hoor and your units are getting raped, then u may have to try a different approach, but still you will want to attack sooner or later. No matter what, it is better to attack then defend, because when you defend, you either stay the same, or u loose buildings and land. When you attack you either stay the same or u kill buildings and gain land. If you play with good aggression, you do not give your opponent the option to attack you, he is merely forced to defend.



Another key to aggression is using Siege Rams, rather then trebs. Trebuchets take far too long to pack and unpack, and siege rams straight up destroy buildings without much effort. All you have to do is set a group as aggressive and patrol um to the back of your opponents base with an army protecting um, and you’ll fuck some shit up. I’ll get more in depth about the great uses of siege rams in the army strategy section, but just know that siege rams make your army far more devastating to towns then any other unit in the game. Hence they are a must since you hopefully will be an aggressive player who wants to kill as many enemy buildings and gain as much land as possible.



Perhaps the most important need for aggression is in team games, especially 2v2. So many bad players will simply sit back and build in a 2v2. In this situation, if your opponent has any sort of sense, he will double your partner. And of course, since your opponent will be acting and you will be reacting, his army will get to your pard’s base much sooner then your army will, and if it’s at around the 10-12 minute mark, the double will likely screw your pard, hence making you both loose the game. When I am in a 2v2 and my partner just sits there with an army, it really annoys me. It is practically the same as him making a university and a wonder, because a guy just sitting there with an army, not helping, not attacking, is helping the same amount as the wonder guy, except the wonder at least looks cool.



Also, if you have a good expert economy, of 130 to 150 villagers, your going to have ample resources, and likely more then your opponent, whether in a 1v1 or 2v2. And if you simply sit back and let your resources stockpile due to you being at pop limit when you are out-ecoing your opponent, you are loosing a very nice advantage. The premise behind aggression with a good economy is if you and your opponent both kill the same amount of each others units (value wise of course) when he runs out of resources you will still have more, with which you can make more units and kill him. So the key is to make him use up all his resources so that you can embrace this advantage.



Attack until your opponent dies. It’s a simple but very valuable strategy. So when you’re playing, use proper aggression early in the game, and throughout.


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    Current date/time is Sat Oct 21, 2017 10:53 am